Collecting Vintage Miriam Haskell Jewelry
Find & Identify Elaborate Antique Haskell Costume Pieces
May 6, 2009
When she started her business in 1926, Miriam Haskell’s costume jewelry quickly became some of the most distinctive and popular on the market. Like her contemporary, Coco Chanel, her jewelry was embraced by many fashionable women of the day, particularly in New York and Hollywood. It was largely thanks to the two of them that costume jewelry was put on the map and established as art.
Design
Haskell’s jewelry was set apart from the crowd with its use of materials and incredible attention to detail. Frank Hess was lead designer from the mid-20s to the early '60s and was responsible for most of Haskell’s stylish and innovative designs. He used tiny Japanese seed pearls, murano glass, and bohemian stones, and they were always handset. Elaborate filigree and careful wiring in gold tone metals with antique gold finishes were also indicative of Haskell pieces. Everything was done in exquisite, handmade detail.
Identifying
Before buying Haskell jewelry, familiarize yourself with styles and price guides. In the early years of the company (until the mid to late 1940s) pieces went unsigned, so there is some confusion today about what is Haskell and what isn’t. While there’s no doubt that many unsigned pieces are out there on the market, it is unlikely that all that are attributed to Haskell are genuine. One of the best ways to identify these pieces is through vintage ads.
Delicate Beauty
Because they were all handmade, pieces are quite fragile. Many that have survived until now may be better off being displayed as the works of art they are, rather than being worn on the body. If a piece becomes loose or damaged, it will be very difficult to have it restored.
Prices
Haskell pieces are generally fairly expensive due to the quality of the craftsmanship and the unique designs. The incredible detail was also directly related to the amount of time it took to complete a piece, and thus the prices were driven up. Because the designs are so distinctive it’s unlikely that you’ll come across any sellers who don’t know what they’ve got. Keep in mind also that the value of Haskell pieces goes down dramatically if there’s damage because the elements are so difficult to replace, so if you find an inexpensive Haskell piece check it carefully for damage. Necklaces in particular are the most sought-after due to the elaborate designs, and the likelihood of finding one at a low price is slim.
Miriam Haskell had a very successful career and it’s easy to see why. She helped elevate the status of costume jewelry so that it was not only acceptable, but fashionable. With her incredibly talented designers, Miriam Haskell created some of the most beautiful pieces ever made. If you’ve got one, hold on and don’t let it go!
